論文翻譯-中英文對(duì)照

服裝產(chǎn)品中纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的可操作性探討
Discussion on the Operability of Standard Identification of Fiber Content of Garment Product

摘要：為了有效執(zhí)行FZ/T 01053-2007 《紡織品 纖維含量的標(biāo)識(shí)》標(biāo)準(zhǔn)、提高服裝產(chǎn)品檢測(cè)質(zhì)量，增強(qiáng)纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的可操作性，通過大量比對(duì)試驗(yàn)，并對(duì)質(zhì)量檢測(cè)中遇到的有關(guān)問題深入探討后，找出對(duì)現(xiàn)行纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中有關(guān)條款的修訂方法。
Abstract: To effectively implement FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content, strengthen quality control of garment product, improve the Operability of Standard Identification of Fiber Content and find out way to revise terms on the existing Standard Identification of Fiber Content through rich comparison tests and discussion on problems in the quality inspection.
關(guān)鍵詞：標(biāo)準(zhǔn)  纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)  可操作性  探討
Key words: Standard, Identification of Fiber Content, Operability and Discussion
0  前言
0  Preface
自2001年12月中國加入WTO[1]后，一方面為中國的紡織服裝產(chǎn)品全面加入國際競(jìng)爭(zhēng)提供了很好的機(jī)會(huì)，另一方面也會(huì)影響到尚未完成的我國服裝業(yè)的升級(jí)換代與結(jié)構(gòu)調(diào)整。面臨著巨大的機(jī)遇和挑戰(zhàn)，為了提高紡織業(yè)在國際上的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力，必須應(yīng)用新技術(shù)開發(fā)新產(chǎn)品，提高產(chǎn)品附加值和質(zhì)量、樹立自主品牌是企業(yè)提高國際競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力的重要手段之一。紡織品質(zhì)量[2]的優(yōu)劣與生產(chǎn)過程中的各個(gè)環(huán)節(jié)都有密切的聯(lián)系，質(zhì)量因素是多方面的，其生產(chǎn)過程或過程中的各項(xiàng)活動(dòng)的質(zhì)量就決定了產(chǎn)品的質(zhì)量。適用、實(shí)用的紡織標(biāo)準(zhǔn)就為紡織生產(chǎn)提供量化標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，其中紡織纖維種類[3]及其含量是標(biāo)志紡織品品質(zhì)的重要內(nèi)容之一，也是消費(fèi)者購買紡織品時(shí)最直接的關(guān)注點(diǎn)，準(zhǔn)確標(biāo)注服裝產(chǎn)品的纖維含量，對(duì)于承擔(dān)紡織品質(zhì)量監(jiān)督任務(wù)的質(zhì)量監(jiān)督機(jī)構(gòu)來說，可謂任重道遠(yuǎn)。FZ/T 01053-2007 《紡織品 纖維含量的標(biāo)識(shí)》自2007年11月1日實(shí)施以來，為規(guī)范纖維含量標(biāo)注發(fā)揮了很大作用，但隨著各類產(chǎn)品的不斷出現(xiàn)，也顯示了實(shí)際應(yīng)用中的弊端，能否最大限度提高纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)的可操作性成為商家、質(zhì)量檢測(cè)機(jī)構(gòu)和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)起草部門一直追求的目標(biāo)。
Since China’s access to WTO [1] in December 2001, it has created a good opportunity for China’s textile apparel participating in international competition on one hand; on the other hand, it has exerted influence on the uncompleted upgrading, reforming and structural regulation of China’s clothing industry. Facing both great opportunity and challenge, enterprises should become more competitive in textile industry in the world by applying new technology to develop new products, improving the added value and quality of products, and setting independent brand. The quality [2] of textile is in close connection with each production link and affected by many factors. The production process as well as the activities in the production process will determine the quality of the products. Applicable and practical textile standard offers quantitative criteria for textile production. Meanwhile, category [3] and content of textile fibre are important factors indicating the quality of textile, and also the direct focuses of customers when buying textile. Quality Supervision Institution for supervising the quality of textile shoulder heavy responsibilities of marking the fibre content of garment product accurately. Since FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content was carried out on November 1, 2007, it has played important role in specifying the identification of fibre content. While, it has also had some disadvantages in practical use due to the creation of a variety of products. As a result, improvement of the Operability of Identification of Fiber Content becomes the goal pursued by enterprises, Quality Supervision Institution and Standard Draft Department persistently.
1   國家標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中纖維含量的標(biāo)識(shí)
1.  Identification of Fiber Content as for National Standard
我國的紡織品檢測(cè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的制定[4]和修訂速度明顯滯后于產(chǎn)品的開發(fā)速度。紡織品檢測(cè)的國家標(biāo)準(zhǔn)、行業(yè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)及企業(yè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)大部分都是20世紀(jì)90年代初制定和發(fā)布的，即使部分內(nèi)容有所更新，也因品種單一和不配套而使標(biāo)準(zhǔn)缺乏連貫性和嚴(yán)密性，導(dǎo)致標(biāo)準(zhǔn)在實(shí)際執(zhí)行的過程中遇到瓶頸。例如FZ/T 01053-2007 《紡織品 纖維含量的標(biāo)識(shí)》纖維含量允差7.1中規(guī)定：產(chǎn)品或產(chǎn)品的某一部分完全由一種纖維組成時(shí)，用“100%”、“純”或“全”表示纖維含量，纖維含量允差為0；同時(shí)該標(biāo)準(zhǔn)7.5 中也規(guī)定：當(dāng)產(chǎn)品中某種纖維含量≤0.5%時(shí)，可不計(jì)入總量，標(biāo)為“含微量XX”。簡(jiǎn)單歸納上述兩點(diǎn)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，不難得出下面的結(jié)論：如標(biāo)注為100%棉的產(chǎn)品中是不允許含有其它纖維的，那怕只含有0.01%的其它纖維都可判定為不合格產(chǎn)品；同理，當(dāng)標(biāo)注為100%棉（含微量滌綸）的產(chǎn)品也不能只含棉纖維，一定要有≤0.5%的滌綸才可以判定為合格產(chǎn)品。
The formulation and revision of inspection standard of China’s textile are far behind the development of products. National standard, industrial standard and enterprise standard of textile inspection were mostly constituted and issued in the early 1990s, part of which were in trouble during the implementation and renewed for lack of consistency and strictness because of single and unmatched products. For example, concerning the tolerance, in clause 7.1 of FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content, it is specified that when the product or some part of the product is made of a certain fibre, it should indicate the fibre content with “100%”, “pure” or “full”, and the tolerance of the fibre content is 0; in clause 7.5, it is specified that when fibre content of the product is no more than 0.5%, it may not be calculated in the total content and marked with “micro XX contained”. In summarization of the above two standards, it can be undoubtedly concluded that the product with only 0.01% fibre can be judged unqualified if the product marked with 100% cotton allows no other fibre; similarly, the product marked with 100% cotton (with micro terylene) cannot contain cotton fibre only and must contain no more than 0.5% terylene. In this way, it can be judged qualified.

2   檢測(cè)過程中常見的問題
2.  Problems during the inspection
2．1  相同產(chǎn)品在標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中的不確定性
2.1 Uncertainty of standard of same product
在實(shí)際的產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量監(jiān)督檢測(cè)過程中，常常會(huì)遇到一些產(chǎn)品標(biāo)注為100%棉卻檢測(cè)出含有極少量其它纖維的情況，這一點(diǎn)在牛仔服裝的定性和定量過程中體現(xiàn)尤為突出。例如，某牛仔褲吊牌標(biāo)簽標(biāo)注纖維含量為100%棉，可是運(yùn)用切片在顯微鏡下觀察時(shí)，整個(gè)切片上有時(shí)會(huì)觀察到有一、二根粘纖或麻纖維等的存在，多次觀察會(huì)時(shí)有時(shí)無的出現(xiàn)，由于含量太少，無法利用化學(xué)溶解法或其它方法定量其具體含量。出現(xiàn)這種情況時(shí)，有的檢測(cè)部門會(huì)理解為產(chǎn)品在整個(gè)流程中夾雜飛花等極微量非人為因素的纖維，仍可標(biāo)注為100%棉，有的檢測(cè)部門會(huì)建議標(biāo)注為100%棉（含微量其它纖維），這時(shí)就會(huì)出現(xiàn)同一個(gè)產(chǎn)品有兩種不同的標(biāo)注結(jié)果。
During the quality inspection and test, it is usually detected that some products marked with 100% cotton contain little other fibre, which is well demonstrated on the qualitative and quantitative process for jeans. For example, some jean label is marked with 100% cotton fibre. However, when the slice is observed with microscope, the slice is found with one or two strips of viscose or fibrilia. After observed for many times, the slice is found with viscose or fibrilia every now and then. The viscose or fibrilia cannot be measured with chemical dissolution method or some other method for it is in existence with very little quantity. In such a case, some Quality Supervision Department will think that the product can still be marked with 100% cotton even if it is mixed with micro fibre beyond control, such as flying; while, another Quality Supervision Department would suggest 100% cotton (micro other fibre). Finally, the same product could be marked in two different ways.
2．2  不同時(shí)期和服裝不同部位檢測(cè)中出現(xiàn)的不同結(jié)果
2.2 Different detection results of different parts of the clothes in different periods
有的生產(chǎn)商在成品布送檢時(shí)，檢測(cè)結(jié)果為100%棉，當(dāng)產(chǎn)品在成品服裝再次送檢時(shí)，卻檢測(cè)出含有微量其它纖維，或者是同一件服裝面料的不同部位纖維含量稍有差異，有的部位為純棉，有的部位卻含有微量其它纖維的情況。出現(xiàn)諸如此類情況后，不管是生產(chǎn)者、服裝產(chǎn)品檢測(cè)部門，還是產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量監(jiān)督部門都感到很難解釋，各方都對(duì)自己的檢驗(yàn)結(jié)果持肯定態(tài)度。因?yàn)闃?biāo)準(zhǔn)的可操作性問題引發(fā)各檢測(cè)部門的判定尺度不一致，常常引起客戶抱怨。
When submitted for inspection by manufacturers, the cloth of the product is detected with 100% cotton. But the finished clothes are detected with micro other fibre when submitted for inspection again, or the fibre content of different parts of the same material is slightly different. Some parts are pure cotton, while other parts are with micro other fibre. In this case, the manufacturer, Garment Product Supervision Department and Quality Supervision Department have difficulties in explaining and each is affirmative about its inspection. The operability of standard leads to the inconsistent criteria for all the supervision departments, which often results in complaints from customers.
2．3對(duì)比試驗(yàn)
2.3 Comparison test
為了弄清以上出現(xiàn)的問題，進(jìn)行了大量而系統(tǒng)的對(duì)比試驗(yàn)[5]研究，合作單位是某著名品牌生產(chǎn)商。
To make issue mentioned above clear, abundant and systematic comparison tests [5] are carried out. The cooperative enterprise is a famous manufacturer.

2．3．1 主要儀器
2.3.1 Main instrument
纖維細(xì)度分析儀、哈氏切片器、分析天平（精度為0.0002g）、電熱鼓風(fēng)烘箱（能保持溫度為105℃±3℃）、恒溫振蕩器（溫度可調(diào)）、干燥器（裝有變色硅膠）、250ml有塞三角燒瓶、量筒。
Fiber fineness analyzer, fiber slice cutter, analytical balance (0.0002g precision), electric blast drying oven (keep temperature at105℃±3℃), constant temperature vibrator (with adjustable temperature), drier (with allochroic silicagel), 250ml stuffed conical flask and graduated flask.
2．3．2 試樣制備
2.3.2 Preparation of test sample
20件送檢樣品中隨機(jī)抽取5件，分別編號(hào)為A、B、C、D、E做為試驗(yàn)樣品，并且在每個(gè)樣品的不同部位按照標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中樣品制備要求剪取共計(jì)4份試樣分別編號(hào)為①、②、③、④。
Randomly selecting 5 from 20 samples for inspection and respectively recording them with A, B, C, D and E as samples to be inspected; according to the requirements of preparing samples by standard, cutting 4 parts from different parts of each different samples and respectively recording them with①, ②, ③ and ④.
2．3．3 試樣定性
2.3.3 Determination of nature of test sample
通過燃燒法和顯微鏡法可以初步確定為棉纖維。
It can be preliminarily determined as cotton fibre through burning and microscope.
2．3．4 試樣干重測(cè)定
2.3.4 Measuring of dry weight of test sample
把試樣放入已恒重的稱量瓶?jī)?nèi)，在105℃±3℃烘箱中烘干后，蓋上瓶蓋，移入干燥器中冷卻、稱重，重復(fù)上述操作直至恒重。
Put the test sample in the weighing bottle with constant weight; dry in the oven at a temperature of 105℃±3℃; put on the bottle cap and then remove to the drier for cooling and weighing; repeat the steps to get a constant weight.
2．3．5 溶解纖維素纖維
2.3.5 Dissolution of cellulosic fibre
用75%（m/m）硫酸把纖維素纖維從已知干重的試樣中溶解，然后把不溶纖維清洗、烘干、冷卻、稱重，計(jì)算出各組分含量百分率。
Dissolve cellulosic fibre of the dried sample with 75% (m/m) sulphuric acid; clean and dry insoluble fibre; cool, weigh and calculate the percentage of each component.
2．3．6 凈干重量百分率的計(jì)算
2.3.6 Percentage of calculation of net dry weight
計(jì)算方法如下：
The method is as follows:
P1=               
P2=100－P1
式中：P1----不溶解纖維的凈干含量百分率，%；
In the formula, P1 is the percentage (%) of net dry weight of insoluble fibre;
P2----溶解纖維凈干含量百分率，%；
P2 is the percentage (%) of net dry weight of soluble fibre;
m0----預(yù)處理后試樣干重，g；
m0 is the dry weight (g) of sample pretreated;
m1----剩余的不溶纖維干重，g；
m1 is the dry weight (g) of the rest insoluble fibre;
d------不溶纖維在試劑處理時(shí)的重量修正系數(shù)。
d is the modified coefficient of weight of the insoluble fibre when processing reagent;
d值計(jì)算方法如下：
d is calculated as follows:
         d=
式中：m0----已知不溶纖維干重，g；
In the formula, m0 is the dry weight (g) of the known insoluble fibre;
m1----試劑處理后不溶纖維干重，g；
m1 is the dry weight (g) of the insoluble fibre after processing reagent;
本實(shí)驗(yàn)中d=1.00.
In this experiment, d=1.00.
2．3．7 試驗(yàn)數(shù)據(jù)
2.3.7 Experimental data
實(shí)驗(yàn)數(shù)據(jù)如表1所示。
Experimental data are shown in the following table 1:
表1 試驗(yàn)數(shù)據(jù)
Table 1: Experimental data
試樣
Test sample  溶解前試樣干量（g）
Dry weight (g) of test sample prior to dissolution 溶解后不溶纖維干量（g）
Dry weight (g) of insoluble fibre after dissolution 不溶纖維百分含量（%）
Percentage (%) of insoluble fibre   

2．3．8 試驗(yàn)結(jié)果分析
2.3.9 Analysis of test results
通過對(duì)表1中剩余纖維進(jìn)行分析處理，得知剩余的是滌綸纖維。表1試驗(yàn)數(shù)據(jù)中，20塊總試樣中，含有滌綸的試驗(yàn)樣品有7塊，占總試驗(yàn)樣品的35%，而且滌綸含量都很小，均沒有超過0.1%；另一現(xiàn)象是含有微量滌綸樣品的分布沒有規(guī)律可尋，存在一定的隨機(jī)性。合作客戶提供了其純棉牛仔服裝的生產(chǎn)工藝，并沒有人為加入滌綸等其它纖維的可能。
Through analysis and treatment of the rest fibre in the table 1, we can know that the rest is polyester fiber. Of 20 test samples, there are 7 test samples with terylene, which makes up 35% of the total test samples, and the terylene is very little, that is, no more than 0.1%. In addition, test samples with micro terylene are distributed irregularly, and they are random. The cooperative enterprise provided the production process for pure cotton jeans, so it is impossible to add terylene or other fibre by men.
綜合分析各方面因素，可以判定這些滌綸是服裝在紡紗、織造、染整等流程中非人為因素而混入的，所以它存在極大的偶然性、隨機(jī)性和微量性，即同一批次的面料，因?yàn)轱w花等不可避免因素，從而出現(xiàn)了表1中不規(guī)則的檢驗(yàn)數(shù)據(jù)。
With analysis of all aspects, it can be judged that the terylene is mixed beyond control when the clothes are spun, weaved, dyed and finished. There is chance and randomness, and it is little, that is, different data in table 1 has occurred for the same batch of material owing to inevitable factor, such as flying.
3  標(biāo)準(zhǔn)標(biāo)識(shí)的不完整性
3 Incompletion of standard identification
3．1  微量纖維的忽略量
3.1 Negligible quantity of micro fibre
根據(jù)實(shí)驗(yàn)結(jié)果，那么類似這批服裝到底該如何標(biāo)注其成分含量呢？問題就在于FZ/T 01053-2007 《紡織品 纖維含量的標(biāo)識(shí)》標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的可操作性上，該標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中沒有具體量化微量到底能少到多少就可以忽略。
According to the test results, how to mark the component content for such similar apparel? The point is the operability of Standard of FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content, which did not specify how much micro fibre can be neglected.
3．2  產(chǎn)品的合格與不合格性
3.2 Qualification and disqualification of products
表1中的檢驗(yàn)結(jié)果，質(zhì)量檢測(cè)部門到底應(yīng)該如何標(biāo)注呢？既不能單純按照FZ/T 01053-2007 《紡織品 纖維含量的標(biāo)識(shí)》7.1條款標(biāo)為100%棉，也不能按7.5條款標(biāo)為100%棉（含微量滌綸），如果片面標(biāo)注都有可能在市場(chǎng)質(zhì)量監(jiān)督中被判為不合格項(xiàng)目的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)。
According to the test results in table 1, how should the Quality Supervision Department mark the component content? It cannot purely mark 100% cotton in accordance with clause 7.1 of FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content or 100% cotton (with micro terylene) in accordance with clause 7.5. If marked with any one, the products may be judged unqualified during the quality inspection.
3．3  對(duì)于標(biāo)準(zhǔn)修訂的建議
3.3 Suggestions on revision of standard
出現(xiàn)上述被動(dòng)局面的真正原因是該標(biāo)準(zhǔn)制定的不夠周全，缺乏實(shí)際的可操作性而造成的，所以建議盡快完善標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，確定出可標(biāo)識(shí)微量纖維含量的具體量值指標(biāo)為≤0.5%且＞0.1%，從而使標(biāo)準(zhǔn)與時(shí)俱進(jìn)，適應(yīng)質(zhì)量檢測(cè)部門、市場(chǎng)質(zhì)量監(jiān)督部門以及生產(chǎn)廠商等各方的要求。只有不斷增加標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的社會(huì)適應(yīng)性和權(quán)威性，才能讓標(biāo)準(zhǔn)更好地為生產(chǎn)者、消費(fèi)者和質(zhì)量監(jiān)督部門服務(wù)。
The said problem is caused by incompletion and lack of operability of standard. Therefore, it needs to perfect the standard as soon as possible and determine the quantum index of micro fibre is no more than 0.5% and more than 0.1%, so as to make the standard keep pace with times and satisfy the requirements of Quality Supervision Department, Quality Control Department and manufacturer. Only adaptability and authority of the standard are improved can it serve the manufacturer, customer and Quality Supervision Department very well.
4  小結(jié)
4. Conclusion
通過長期的實(shí)踐和總結(jié)，如果將纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)“7.5 當(dāng)產(chǎn)品中某種纖維含量≤0.5%時(shí)，可不計(jì)入總量，標(biāo)為‘含微量XX’”這一條修改為“7.5 當(dāng)產(chǎn)品中某種纖維含量總量≤0.5%且＞0.1%時(shí)，可不計(jì)入總量，標(biāo)為‘含微量XX’；當(dāng)某種纖維含量總量≤0.1%時(shí)可以忽略不計(jì)” 時(shí)，就能完全滿足正常的檢測(cè)需要。所以，將不多于0.1%的微量纖維進(jìn)行必要的忽略，在纖維含量標(biāo)識(shí)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的可操作性上是可行的。
Through long-term practice and conclusion, it can meet the requirements for normal inspection in case of revising “When fibre content of some product is no more than 0.5%, it may not be calculated in the total content and marked with ‘micro XX contained’ in clause 7.5 of Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content” into “When fibre content of some product is no more than 0.5% and more than 0.1%, it may not be calculated in the total content and marked with ‘micro XX contained’; when fibre content of some product is no more than 0.1%, it can be neglected.” In conclusion, it is feasible to neglect no more than 0.1% fibre concerning the Operability of Standard Identification of Fiber Content.
參考文獻(xiàn)：
Bibliography:
 [2]  蔣耀興 郭雅琳 紡織品檢驗(yàn)學(xué)[M] 北京：中國紡織出版社
Inspection of Textiles [M] by Jiang Yaoxing and Guo Yalin, published by China Textile & Apparel Press in Beijing
 [3] 田恬 紡織品檢驗(yàn)[M] 北京：中國紡織出版社
Testing of Textiles [M] by Tian Tian, published by China Textile & Apparel Press in Beijing
[4] 吳堅(jiān) 李淳 家用紡織品檢測(cè)手冊(cè)[M] 北京：中國紡織出版社
Inspection Manual for Household Textiles [M] by Wu Jian and Li Chun, published by China Textile & Apparel Press in Beijing
作者簡(jiǎn)介：
Introduction to the author:
XX(1980)，男，助理工程師，主要從事各類紡織品檢驗(yàn)和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)研究工作。
XX, born in 1980, male, assistant engineer, engaged in inspection and standard research of various textiles.